MINNIE B Home.
Diary 24 August - 9 October
Monday, August 24, 2009

Posn 37deg06′.639N 08deg40′.458W












This is Lagos. We are in the Algarve and it’s full of Brits - aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaargh! This is absolutely no use. Everyone speaks English, many of the staff in the bars and restaurants are Brits - how are we going to learn enough Portuguese to get by in Brazil? You have no idea the stress this creates - we just cannot enjoy the continuous sunshine, the warmth, the northerly winds that had us doing 7.5-8kts as we came round Cape St Vincent yesterday evening accompanied by about eight dolphins. You must sympathise - it’s all such a trial.

However, before this we were in Sesimbra with Julia. We went to the airport with her as she had her heavy dive gear and a bit of an iffy back (better now). We took the bus and had a great view of Lisbon and the Rio Tejo as we crossed the bridge. Note to Lisbon Public Transport Authority: lots of buses come in from outlying towns and villages to Placa de Espanha, but why is there no bus from there to the airport? Doh! After walking several streets to where an airport bus came by, it was like a car park shuttle bus, full and totally inadequate. Plan B - get taxi. It ended up easier and cheaper. We had a great time with Julia and look forward to more sailing with her.

On 20th August we left Sesimbra for Sines (Posn 37deg57′.09N 08deg51′.993W) and had a lovely sail in a NW F4. We arrived late afternoon and called up the marina on the VHF to be told it was full. There is a very sheltered anchorage inside an inner harbour, and we found a space to anchor despite it also being full of boats in transit. Sines is the last stop going south before Cape St Vincent (or the first stop going north), so it is a busy spot. The town itself is quite laid back and has a charm, with its castle, cobbled streets and alleys, and a good pastelaria where we had our milky coffee (galhao) and pasteis. We have developed a fondness for the latter which brings a complementary requirement to walk a lot.

We stayed three nights and did some boat sorting, including fitting mosquito nets for later on.

The options once round Cape St Vincent (CSV) are varied as there are a couple of anchorages at Ensenada to Sagres and Baleeira, or go on to Lagos marina, or anchor off the beach at Lagos. Plan A had been to sail the 55nm from Sines to CSV, see what the weather was like and the anchor at one of the above. All was going well and we were a few miles north of CSV when the forecast F6 kicked in - we were flying, but then the anchorages were getting a lot of swell and the boats we saw there were rolling about a lot, so we pushed on to Lagos, arriving about 2000.

Today, 24th August has been chores, albeit we had a stroll around the town - very nice with loads of restaurants and cafes.
Sunday, August 30, 2009

Alvor

Posn 37deg07.816N 08deg36.179W

According to the guy in the tourist information office, this is not a quaint fishing village, it’s a tourist development. As we sit in the Sports Cafe with Aston Villa vs Fulham on Sky Sports 1, we are sure he is correct. But … it’s quite nice. In fact what’s really nice is the anchorage.
We are in a lagoon about 4nm east of Lagos and came here on Wednesday 26th after three nights in the Lagos marina, which is a busy place with good facilities - excellent chandlery and they can get 4.5kg Calor Gas bottles refilled (can’t be done everywhere). It takes 24 hours as a guy takes the bottles away. Chandlery costs down here are very high though - some things such as anodes and Volvo parts are twice the price they are in UK. So anyone thinking of bringing a boat down here should load up with consumables and spares etc before they set off.
Anyways, back to the lagoon - the entrance is between two breakwaters and there are just two marks showing the channel - one green starboard hand buoy and one red port hand buoy. We came in at low water so we had a rising tide, but even so we raised the keel and folded the rudder. It was a good time to do it as we could see all the drying banks. A French boat anchored near us later and when the wind changed from northerly to southerly, she grounded pretty much at half tide.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Vilamoura

Posn 37deg04.618N 08deg07.180W

A secret has been discovered – how to make a woman happy. But more of that later …
We awoke on Monday morning (31st August) to cloud, poor visibility and drizzle. What a change this was – still warm though. We left the anchorage at Alvor at 1015, having motored the anchor out as it was so well dug in, and crept out of the lagoon. There was no wind and we motored the 26nm to Vilamoura. Visibility was up and down so we had the radar on for a while and stayed about 1nm offshore.
Roberto had also left and we caught up with him at the reception pontoon at around 1500. There are berths for nearly 1000 boats in Vilamoura and most of them seem to be of that type that when on display at Boat Shows, we walk straight past – yes it’s stinky heaven. The facilities are good and the marina is surrounded by a wide promenade and lots of restaurants, cafes and bars. There are a lot of Brit holidaymakers here and very few sailing folk since the marina is tad on the “most expensive in Europe” side.
We had a bit of a faff when we came in as the dinghy was hoisted on the stern and we wanted to moor stern to. So it was in one berth bows to, unload dinghy, go out and then into our berth stern to, then retrieve dinghy. We also took the time to clean, deflate and stow the dinghy as we will not need it before our trip to Madeira. As Norma commented “we seem to spend a lot of time tying and untying knots” – add and cleaning too.
On Tuesday 1st September the mobile chandlery arrived, in the form of Brian and Jill. They are staying at a swanky hotel – the Tivoli - about 300m from our pontoon. It has been great to meet up with them and get all the news from UK/NI. They are in excellent form and had a good trip down through Spain and Portugal. They will be here until Monday.
The chandlery has been unloaded and stowed … and we have a very happy Norma. The washing machine is here. The difference between motorised washing and hand washing is a big deal. The machine was set up and tested to-day and a very satisfactory result it is too. The machine has a special stowage place in our forward heads and is operated in the cockpit where we have both power and water (normally a dangerous combination). Phil is just hoping that this is not the thin end of the wedge – all the signs are that it is not as, for example, the iron has not seen the light of day since we left three months ago. Phew!
Thursday 10th September 2009 (1100 UTC)

Posn: 33deg19'.790N 15deg40'.976W

We are now just over 30nm from Porto Santo and have been sailing for the last 24 hours, averaging 6.5kts. The wind is N F4 with 2+m seas. Yesterday evening the wind was F5 and we were flying at 7.5/8kts. The sky has been overcast but we have not had any rain and lightning as on the night of 8th/9th. We had a bit of close encounter with a cargo ship yesterday evening at about 2000 which was not displaying the correct lights. The ship's crew clearly ignored the fact that we were sailing and we were on their starboard side - we knew they had seen us because they hooted. We turned away to starboard and all was well. The importance was emphasised of not only keeping a good look out, but even if you are right of way vessel being prepared to take avoiding action. The Windpilot was on at the time but is easily disengaged for hand steering. Talking of which, Phil decided to reef the genoa as the wind had got up, but kept it in too tight so the sail and the Windpilot were having a serious fight. In the end the safety line in the Windpilot system called a halt and parted - just as it is designed to do.

Morale is high and enough sleep has been had in series of naps: everyone on board is content and enjoying the trip. Minnie B has been sailing well and quickly, and we are well pleased.

Messages have been sent to and received from home via the SSB and that is proving its value, along with getting weather updates.

We are looking forward to reaching Porto Santo and hope to be there around 1700 ship's time (1600 UTC) to-day.

Tuesday 15th September 2009

Madeira

Posn 32deg44’.491N  16deg42’.693W

Madeira – talked about, dreamed about and longed for ... now we are here.  It is a stunning place with magnificent views of steep and high cliffs, waterfalls tumbling down to the sea, deep gorges with lush sub-tropical vegetation, highly cultivated with bananas, grapes, sugar cane, corn and a variety of fruits, particularly passion fruits, barren and arid areas, heather and gorse, blue skies and warm seas, clouds and mist.  It has an air of well-being with happy, friendly people.  It has relatively new roads and tunnels to speed people around the island.  It also has a highly developed capacity to part visitors from their money. Despite the latter we love the place.
We arrived, though, in Porto Santo marina (33deg03.’721N  16deg18’.936W) at 1735 on 10th September – 470nm in 3 days and 5hours 30mins.  We sailed for two thirds of the time and motored/motor-sailed for 25.5hours due to lack of wind.  We had sunshine and rain (most of the latter on Norma’s 0300-0600 watch on 9th September).  We failed to catch any fish – apparently we need a Muppet.  No, silly, it’s not a ridiculous doll/puppet, it’s a lure that works.  We probably need a book and some tuition as well.  
The village/town is full of bars and restaurants - lots of Brits again - but its narrow, traffic-free streets mean it retains some charm. The mini-markets are not very good, but we took the opportunity in Lagos to stock up on food and drink.
While in Lagos we also visited a dentist as Norma had lost part of a tooth - an appointment was provided within 24 hours and the very nice Japanese dentist did a great job in no time at all.
We have continued to do a bit of boat sorting - it is a continuous process - and now have the hatch covers (to keep off the Ultra Violet degradation) working well along with the mosquito nets for the hatches. We have also been preparing fishing lines so that we can try to catch our dinner on the way to Madeira. We were advised by a Ringhaddy Cruising Club member who has done the Rallye Iles du Soleil to tie bungy to the shrouds and fishing line to the bungy - the idea is that the elasticated bungy allows the fish to swim away and then gets hauled back, thus exhausting the fish but not having a continuous rigid pull on the line. So we have three lengths of 3m bungy with hard eyes whipped into both ends, then there will be 15-20m of line with the lure and hooks. We bought some stainless steel end wires in Vigo (for fish with sharp teeth) and some line winding boards, so along with two fishing rods we are well set up. The chances of catching something increase exponentially with the number of lines out.- will hope to do 4 or 5 and will report from Madeira.
As we were taking our ease in the cockpit this morning, our old friend from the Galician rias - Roberto on ‘Brancaleone’ - arrived. We last saw him in Povoa da Varzim and he is coming for drinks this evening. Nice.
Tomorrow, Monday 31st August, we will head for Vilamoura - about 26nm - as Brian and Jill arrive on Tuesday. We are looking forward to spending some time with them.
Funny how perspectives change – we are really quite indifferent to many of the news stories we read about in Jill’s newspaper (but then it was the Daily Telegraph), but the exact tension of the bungy on our sun shades, or the power and water consumption of the washing machine are major issues. This is cruising.
Our crew of Donal and Michael were superb and excellent company too – the craic was mighty.  They also took turns at hand steering.  Mind you we did get a bit concerned when Donal started wearing his trouser zip-offs in not quite the right place.
On Saturday we hired a car and went for a tour along the north coast, stopping for lunch at a restaurant with a superb view along the coast – the menu has some hairy options though (see photo gallery).  Then we took Donal to the airport and were sad that the voyage had ended.  
We returned to Funchal (it means fennel) and took the cable car up to the botanical gardens and an imposing church.  We did not go into the gardens as earlier in the day Michael had been struck down with Hay Fever when we stopped to look at some of the traditional A-frame houses.  We had been told about an exciting way of getting back down – sitting in a wicker basket on a wooden toboggan which is steered by two guys dressed in white and wearing the brakes on their feet.  In the evening we visited Faial which was geared up for the annual Festival of the Virgin Mary, protector of fishermen and sailors.  We tried the local Poncha (rum, honey sugar cane with lemon or passion fruit) – not too many needed to be able to speak fluent Portuguese (or is that washing machine?)  We also joined in the traditional way of eating.  This involves buying skewers of steak (about one metre long and far too much) and then finding space at one of the many barbecues that are dotted around to cook the meat.  The whole thing is eaten with bread and garlic butter and washed down with wine (hm ... homemade and definitely “local”).
Sunday was a rest day – well, it did involve two trips up the mast and lots of laundry.
On Monday we hired a car again and went to Porto Moniz where there are natural swimming pools among the rocks.  Concrete has been poured over them to create sunbathing areas and easy access.  The facilities are good, with changing rooms, cloakroom and showers (er ... with temperatures that are straight off the mountain).
Minnie B sailed well when we had the wind and the Windpilot was superb, keeping us easily on course – anyone thinking of buying self-steering gear should get one.  Not that we have tried the others, but it was easy to fit, it is easily removed and it works without complaint, the need for power, water or food.

Porto Santo looked interesting but we did not have time to explore as Donal was leaving on Saturday.  We ate at Pata Bravo which is by the marina and although it looks like a caff and not that inviting, we had some of the best food we have eaten since leaving NI – we dined on sardines, octopus, squid, bacalhau (cod) and scabbard fish. This is a must-eat-at place.
The next day(Friday 11th September) we sailed the remaining 27nm to Madeira.  We left at 1135, sailed gently alongside the beach to get a look at the place.  The wind was light and we motor-sailed until 1450, when we put up the pink cruising chute and sailed with just that.  Curiously, this caused some concern among the visiting crew about what others might think about their sexuality ... very curious.
We arrived in Quinta do Lorde at 1800, having been met by one of the marineiros out in the bay.  We were shepherded in and helped to tie up.  The people are very helpful and friendly, with both Johanna and Catia in the office ready to organise anything that is needed.  There is a major development taking place at the marina with apartments, hotels, shops and restaurants being built, so the backdrop at present is a building site.  It doesn’t impinge too much though and there is a bar and restaurant, though with it being the end of the holiday season, neither is very busy.  
We attempted the return route via the highest points on the island and the main caldera from the volcanic eruption that formed the island but the cloud and mist would not clear, so it was back down to the coast and into Funchal for yet more chandlery and icecream.

We had a superb dinner on board for Michael’s last night with us, staring with Poncha and finishing with Madeira Wine.  To-day we drove Michael to the airport and then it has been boat sorting and some maintenance.  Michael has been great company and we have had a ball.

We have had a fantastic 3+ months on board and fly to the UK on 17th to visit family and friends, before returning to Madeira on 6th October to prepare for the start of the Rallye Iles du Soleil.  It all seems to have flown by even though the pace of our life is a bit on the sloooooooooooow side.  We are privileged to be doing all this.
24th September 2009

Minnie B Position: Madeira

Phil and Norma Position: Beverley, East Yorkshire, England

It’s strange but not strange being back in the UK – everything is so familiar of course so it’s not odd, but being away from Minnie B leads to some withdrawal symptoms. However, we have been lucky as we went to Southampton on our return to the UK and spent three days at the Southampton Boat Show (SIBS) where we ... er ...helped out ... on ... the ... er ... OVNI 395. We even got to take her across to Hythe Marina with Stephen, the agent and owner, when the show ended on Sunday evening – a small but useful fix.

We had a great time with Stephen and Francine, and Paul and Maureen (OVNI 435 “Vagabond Spirit”), and Mike. There was the OVNI owners’ party on Saturday night and an opportunity to catch up with some old friends and make some new ones. We met up with Jan and J*** who we spent time with in Cascais, and were able to do some Yorkshiremen reinforcement.

It was fortunate that we were going to SIBS as we could get some replacement kit and buy various bits and pieces we need for the future. The guys at IM Products have been great, replacing our masthead Lopolight which had failed. It has been redesigned, so fingers crossed.

Daughter Julia has been in Southampton at the National Oceanography Centre and we have been able to spend time with her – the craic is mighty. We visited “The Jolly Sailor” in Bursleden so that Norma could find out what both Phil and Julia had enjoyed on previous visits, and took in Beaulieu, “The Master Builder” at Bucklers Hard and Lymington. All new to us and we could see the attraction – a delightful part of the world.

We drove up to Beverley with Julia on Tuesday and have been staying with Anna and Neil. Phil nearly caused a disaster on the first day, managing to disconnect the refrigerator and freezer. Clearly we have become liabilities ashore and should head back to sea as soon as possible. We have visited Phil’s mother (aged 93 and going strong – irascible doesn’t describe it) and sister’s family. We have chilled in Beverley, enjoying the soaring Minster, lazing over coffee, delighting in finding the best beer in the world (Timothy Taylor’s Landlord) and enjoying walks on the Yorkshire Wolds. The weather has been superb – dry and relatively warm, so exceeding expectations.

Anna and Neil have been very welcoming and it is almost like an early Christmas with us all being together. It is excellent getting their feedback on our website, apart from Neil’s comment that there is too much detail – we will find the means to deal with him shortly. Yorkshiremen don’t forget.
Being back in Yorkshire has been great for Phil as he has been working on his accent and sayings – you know: “You can allus tell a Yorkshireman, but yer can’t tell ‘im much” and “’Ear all, see all, say nowt, eat all, drink all and pay nowt, and if yer do owt fer nowt do it fer yerssen”.
Remember, in Yorkshire we call a spade a ****ing shovel.

We think about Minnie B often and have so far resisted the offer from Catia in Quinta do Lorde to e-mail a photo to us so that we can see she is OK – we especially think about her when we add up all the invoices and receipts. Oh, well, must be done.
Friday 9th October 2009

Quinta do Lorde marina, Madeira

We are back on Minnie B after a superb visit to UK. Our bags were packed with boat stuff and we hope that David and Jacquie will not auction all the clothes we left behind – mind you, they wouldn’t get much for them. D&J were perfect hosts and we look forward to many more visits to enjoy their hospitality …
We relaxed in Yorkshire muchly, enjoying walks in the Yorkshire Wolds and Flamborough Head, and we took a trip to see Neil’s family in Kibworth Beauchamp (where unsurprisingly there was a shop selling spare parts for Tilley lamps). We had a great day with a walk by some impressive canal locks and there just had to be a pub beside the canal basin. There was also a family gathering for the funeral of Phil’s aunt, Muriel – she was 97 and had done well.
Our time in Northern Ireland was hectic and we apologise for not meeting up with some friends – we just ran out of time. Notwithstanding this, we filled the days with visits to the dentist (replacement filling), doctor (anti-malaria tablets), coffee get-togethers, lunches, evening drinks and dinners – no change there then, just like when we are away cruising … not. The weather continued to be kind, although rain on our last day did finally catch up.
And, it was here to greet us on arrival in Madeira, but it was warm. We flew TAP from Gatwick and they are a good airline with plenty of legroom. The marina has been filling up with boats heading to the Canaries for the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers, and of course boats for the Rallye Iles du Soleil. So we are getting to meet lots of the crews and there will be the first formal gatherings over the weekend.
Wednesday saw us sorting the boat out – the marina staff had kept the decks clean while we were away – buying food, and settling back in. It’s amazing how you can forget where you left things after only a couple of weeks. We quite quickly got back into the feel of the boat but nevertheless the transition had its emotional moments.
Thursday had us up early as we had booked a haul out at nearby Canical boatyard. This turned into a bit of a mixed bag of the expected and the totally unexpected. Our plan was simply to check the anodes, get the local engineer to change the cutlass bearing and the shaft seal (the service interval is 500 hours and we had exceeded that, albeit some people run them on for over 1000 hours – as were are spending time in heavily silted rivers and these items are water lubricated we decided to err on the side of caution). That side of things went well. When we arrived at the travel hoist we were impressed by the diver going in the water to check that the slings were in the right place and the very careful lift and chocking up. Then it went pear-shaped. Did we want a hose down? “Yes, just get off the slime please.” Then this guy turns on the biggest, highest pressure hose possible and the boat is minus two coats of antifouling, half of which is now covering the topsides and deck. Phone call to Catia, the marina Manager, produces an offer to pay for the anti-fouling, the boatyard rushing off to buy suitable cleaning products and two guys and us busying ourselves cleaning the boat. Fortunately we had antifouling with us, along with a couple of rollers. Unfortunately, we did not have any overalls, so select least wanted T-shirts and shorts – by the time we had finished anti-fouling again (no time to stop for lunch) we looked as if we were ready to audition for parts in ‘Braveheart 2’. Yes, the antifouling is blue. The lift back in was carried out with the most care we have experienced – large cloth pads over the sling connectors and then brown paper taped over the slings themselves. We had a gentle drop back into the water and time to get the water into the shaft seal before starting the engine. We were back in the marina by 1830 and had all (as much as we could see at the time) the anti-fouling off our faces, arms and legs by 2030. Repeated application of White Spirit and International Thinners No 3 causes the skin to prickle and burn – well, what can you expect when the label says “Avoid contact with the skin - Irritable to the skin”.
Small world number 5,382,971 – so there is a one-off wooden, junk rigged schooner a few trots along the pontoon. No other than Anthony Swanston on “Wild Fox”, all the way from RUYC and Northern Ireland – so we hung out and gossiped about NI over a few drinks. He is sailing single-handed and left to-day for Funchal and points south.
To-day has been washing clothes and preparing all our documents for the rally. Then David and Suzanne arrived on “Suzie Too” - last seen in Cascais. There will be more news exchange at the bar this evening.
The marina now has some eight OVNIs of varying models from 365 to 455 – so, we have gone from being an exotic rarity to common as muck – five of these are doing the rally, so we will be able to swap tips and advice. The significant OVNI presence does indicate we have the right boat for the type of sailing we are doing. Good.
We are off for a well-earned beer now.
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