Diary 15 June - 5 July
15th June 2009 1930
Posn 43deg15'.798N 008deg57'.623W
We arrived here in Corme (pronounced Kormay) at 1800 this evening after a lovely sail from La Coruna. The wind was North/NNW F3-4 and we were bowling along at over 7kts once past the Torre de Hercules. There was a downwind stretch and our speed fell off to 5.5/6kts, rising to over 8kts once we were round Punta Del Roncudo and on a beam reach.
In La Coruna, we have been sending e-mails and updates from the Cafe de la Marina which has free wifi. The marina itself is supposed to have wifi but the signal was too weak. Yesterday afternoon we did quite a few e-mails, but what was really interesting was the Sunday afternoon clientele. There were two tables at the windows either side of the entrance door, occupied by some mature ladies who were having a series of small glasses of beer and playing cards and Ludo. Quite clearly this was a regular Sunday afternoon event - it was lovely. We didn't know people still played Ludo - a great favourite when we were children.
Yesterday evening we went onboard 'Hilaros', Peter and Sally's boat, for drinks and then off the the Real Club Nautico for dinner, along with Peter and Sally's son Paul and his fiancee Erin. Peter speaks Spanish fluently and had so impressed the staff at RCN that they specially cooked dinner for us as Sunday night is normally just the bar. Other yacht clubs take note of this outstanding hospitality and welcome for foreign sailors. We had a super meal and were introduced to Pimientos de Padron - cooked small green chillis with salt and a kind of herby breaded coating. They were absolutely delicious and we will be looking out for more of them. They are quite sweet but the occasional one has real kick. Phil had goat steak - also superb - and Norma had sole which was delicious. Back to Minnie B for a nightcap and to enable Paul and Erin to see her. Now, a very good colleague/friend, Michael Cox, had given Phil a retirement present of a brass and copper Bosun's Call. We had been waiting for an opportunity to use this, so with our RCC Commodore and family coming onboard it was the perfect opportunity - yes, we piped them aboard. Not sure we got the actual call right but it was so appropriate.
Today, we woke knowing we had a good time last night and went off to the market for some supplies. It is a delightful walk across the main square - not sure we have been successful in having it renamed Praza Francis Drake, but that's what we call it. Incidentally, Praza is not a spelling mistake - this is the Galician language. Yes, these pesky Celts are at it all over the place, confusing people and making communications more difficult. Now wouldn't the world be a better place if everyone spoke the same language - avoids misunderstandings and encourages empathy? Oh, yes, and we already speak English fluently.
So, here we are in Corme. The sun has been shining ever since we left La Coruna. We are the only yacht here and have anchored between the viveros - mussel rafts - and the village. It is a pleasant place, albeit the Galician architecture is not what would be described as 'picturesque'. Corme is at the northern side of the Ria de Corme y Laxe and therefore well sheltered in these northerly winds. We do hope the winds don't give Peter, Paul and Erin toomuch trouble as they head north and back to Strangford Lough.
Anyways, we are about to have dinner in the cockpit and then turn in for an early night. Corme will be explored tomorrow.
Posn 43deg15'.798N 008deg57'.623W
We arrived here in Corme (pronounced Kormay) at 1800 this evening after a lovely sail from La Coruna. The wind was North/NNW F3-4 and we were bowling along at over 7kts once past the Torre de Hercules. There was a downwind stretch and our speed fell off to 5.5/6kts, rising to over 8kts once we were round Punta Del Roncudo and on a beam reach.
In La Coruna, we have been sending e-mails and updates from the Cafe de la Marina which has free wifi. The marina itself is supposed to have wifi but the signal was too weak. Yesterday afternoon we did quite a few e-mails, but what was really interesting was the Sunday afternoon clientele. There were two tables at the windows either side of the entrance door, occupied by some mature ladies who were having a series of small glasses of beer and playing cards and Ludo. Quite clearly this was a regular Sunday afternoon event - it was lovely. We didn't know people still played Ludo - a great favourite when we were children.
Yesterday evening we went onboard 'Hilaros', Peter and Sally's boat, for drinks and then off the the Real Club Nautico for dinner, along with Peter and Sally's son Paul and his fiancee Erin. Peter speaks Spanish fluently and had so impressed the staff at RCN that they specially cooked dinner for us as Sunday night is normally just the bar. Other yacht clubs take note of this outstanding hospitality and welcome for foreign sailors. We had a super meal and were introduced to Pimientos de Padron - cooked small green chillis with salt and a kind of herby breaded coating. They were absolutely delicious and we will be looking out for more of them. They are quite sweet but the occasional one has real kick. Phil had goat steak - also superb - and Norma had sole which was delicious. Back to Minnie B for a nightcap and to enable Paul and Erin to see her. Now, a very good colleague/friend, Michael Cox, had given Phil a retirement present of a brass and copper Bosun's Call. We had been waiting for an opportunity to use this, so with our RCC Commodore and family coming onboard it was the perfect opportunity - yes, we piped them aboard. Not sure we got the actual call right but it was so appropriate.
Today, we woke knowing we had a good time last night and went off to the market for some supplies. It is a delightful walk across the main square - not sure we have been successful in having it renamed Praza Francis Drake, but that's what we call it. Incidentally, Praza is not a spelling mistake - this is the Galician language. Yes, these pesky Celts are at it all over the place, confusing people and making communications more difficult. Now wouldn't the world be a better place if everyone spoke the same language - avoids misunderstandings and encourages empathy? Oh, yes, and we already speak English fluently.
So, here we are in Corme. The sun has been shining ever since we left La Coruna. We are the only yacht here and have anchored between the viveros - mussel rafts - and the village. It is a pleasant place, albeit the Galician architecture is not what would be described as 'picturesque'. Corme is at the northern side of the Ria de Corme y Laxe and therefore well sheltered in these northerly winds. We do hope the winds don't give Peter, Paul and Erin toomuch trouble as they head north and back to Strangford Lough.
Anyways, we are about to have dinner in the cockpit and then turn in for an early night. Corme will be explored tomorrow.
17th June 2009
Posn 43deg08'.074N 009deg10'.480W
We are anchored off Camarinas in c4m of water with 20m of anchor chain out, the anchor has a buoyed tripping line and we have our anchor ball up. The mooring light will go on when it gets dark. Apparently the Spanish authorities have been known to fine people for not showing daylight or night anchor signals. We are not taking chances.
We left Corme yesterday at 1210 and arrived here at 1500 after 20 miles of good sailing. Afraid we didn't go ashore - not that inviting and we had all the provisions we needed. The wind was NE F5/6 so we had a reefs in the mainsail and genoa and were doing a steady 8kts for much of the time. The sun shone. The Ria de Camarinas is quite pretty with lots of dark green forests of conifers, interspersed with bright green cultivated fields and pastures. The houses all have the red terracotta roofs and do look the part. In the town - quite small - some of the houses have the traditional Galician gallerias which are quite narrow abutments to the first and upper stories made of many panes of glass. Once again the people are so friendly.
Posn 43deg08'.074N 009deg10'.480W
We are anchored off Camarinas in c4m of water with 20m of anchor chain out, the anchor has a buoyed tripping line and we have our anchor ball up. The mooring light will go on when it gets dark. Apparently the Spanish authorities have been known to fine people for not showing daylight or night anchor signals. We are not taking chances.
We left Corme yesterday at 1210 and arrived here at 1500 after 20 miles of good sailing. Afraid we didn't go ashore - not that inviting and we had all the provisions we needed. The wind was NE F5/6 so we had a reefs in the mainsail and genoa and were doing a steady 8kts for much of the time. The sun shone. The Ria de Camarinas is quite pretty with lots of dark green forests of conifers, interspersed with bright green cultivated fields and pastures. The houses all have the red terracotta roofs and do look the part. In the town - quite small - some of the houses have the traditional Galician gallerias which are quite narrow abutments to the first and upper stories made of many panes of glass. Once again the people are so friendly.
1730 20th June 2009
42deg45'.834N 008deg56'.777W
With the forecast for NE F4/5 on Thursday, increasing F7/8 Friday and Saturday we left Camarinas at 1000 on Thursday 18th June. We were quickly out of the the ria and past Cabo Torinana. With the wind increasing to 25kts we had a reef in the main and a reef in the genoa. Minnie B was in fine form and sprinted along at 8.5kts for lengthy periods. By 1330 the wind has eased and we passed another great cape, Cabo Finisterre at 1330 doing 7.5kts in 20kts wind. The skies had clouded over but were now clear and the sun was beating down. This was just wonderful. Some dolphins had joined us briefly as we left Ria de Muros and all was well. We had heard tales of the difficulties of getting round Finisterre and had even been advised to go straight past on our Biscay crossing as it was possible to get stuck for weeks (or was it months?) on end. Anyway, we did feel some relief at have passed this major landmark. Then it was on to Ria de Muros with a marina at Portosin and, according to the Pilot Book, a possible marina at Muros - the almanac was silent about the latter.
We negotiated some nasty reefs off Pta Carreiro and Pta Queixal at the entrance to Ria de Muros - all that dodging pladdies in Strangford Lough paid off. Then the wind just died. What a shock. One minute we had been pleasantly warm in T-shirts and trousers and the next we were experiencing the full heat of the sun. Hm, we still have some acclimatising to do.
42deg45'.834N 008deg56'.777W
With the forecast for NE F4/5 on Thursday, increasing F7/8 Friday and Saturday we left Camarinas at 1000 on Thursday 18th June. We were quickly out of the the ria and past Cabo Torinana. With the wind increasing to 25kts we had a reef in the main and a reef in the genoa. Minnie B was in fine form and sprinted along at 8.5kts for lengthy periods. By 1330 the wind has eased and we passed another great cape, Cabo Finisterre at 1330 doing 7.5kts in 20kts wind. The skies had clouded over but were now clear and the sun was beating down. This was just wonderful. Some dolphins had joined us briefly as we left Ria de Muros and all was well. We had heard tales of the difficulties of getting round Finisterre and had even been advised to go straight past on our Biscay crossing as it was possible to get stuck for weeks (or was it months?) on end. Anyway, we did feel some relief at have passed this major landmark. Then it was on to Ria de Muros with a marina at Portosin and, according to the Pilot Book, a possible marina at Muros - the almanac was silent about the latter.
We negotiated some nasty reefs off Pta Carreiro and Pta Queixal at the entrance to Ria de Muros - all that dodging pladdies in Strangford Lough paid off. Then the wind just died. What a shock. One minute we had been pleasantly warm in T-shirts and trousers and the next we were experiencing the full heat of the sun. Hm, we still have some acclimatising to do.
We had a trip into town last night for a look-see and then called at the Club Nautico Camarinas as they have a couple of computers for visitors. To-day we rested - amazingly we didn't wake up until 0930. We have been used to waking at 0800 or earlier, so it was a bit of a shock. Must have been all the sun we got yesterday. We went for an explore in the dinghy this morning and the adopted the Spanish custom of a post-prandial siesta. The bimini was put up for the first time to keep off the sun - until now it has been used to keep off the rain.
Early evening we had another trip into town for a walk around - there are shops selling the local craft which is lace, as in lace for the table, baby, windows, furniture. No sale there then. We stocked up on a few provisions and decided to experiment. We have taken a zero-based approach to Spanish wine. This means we are starting at the bottom and working up. Have a guess. Wrong. One litre of white and one of red, in a box, for ... 65 ... cents each. The red one has been opened. Somehow after the second glass it's not bad. We may move up to the 95 cents a litre next time though.
Camarinas has some tourist information on a wooden stand which has maps and photos. The words are in Galician and Castillian (normal Spanish) and helpfully translated into English. We cannot exceed the description provided: "Camarinas is located in the centre of the Costa da Morte ... A walk where humanity pays homage to the romantic painting ... the ocean mixed with the chromatic pallette of dusk ... And to finish, the laces of the toothpicks of great reputation, the toothpick holder entwines the toothpicks like water that falls through the hands, calm waters, restless waters, models of its laces." Well you can't say fairer than that.
Tomorrow we will head south as there is an F7/8 due in on Friday/Saturday.
We motored the last 5nm to the marina a Portosin where two helpful Marineiras were on the pontoon to guide us to our berth. The turning space was reminiscent of Carlingford marina i.e. not much of it, so there was a bit of forward and back, and "oh my goodness that wall looks close", then we were in. No sooner had we finished mooring Minnie B than the Marineiras decided that a Beneteau First 41.7 should be squeezed in beside us - our very big, fat ball fender came into play and there was just room. However they moved berth next day as their topsides paint was taking a serious rubbing. They are one of quite a number of boats/people that we have met, returning to UK/ROI. There seems to be quite an exodus and the state of sterling/euro exchange rate is a major factor. Having said that, we are finding prices here quite reasonable.
Well, the forecast wind arrived and it's still blowing F6 although it is supposed to ease overnight.
The people here at the marina speak very good English and are incredibly helpful. We like this place and will stay a few more days. Yesterday we did some badly needed maintenance on the teak parts of the boat - we strongly recommend Wessex Chemicals for teak cleaner and restorer. Now the unfortunate thing is that you cannot source them in Northern Ireland, nor can they be shipped other than at great expense because of some of the ingredients, but we got ours by having them sent to Anna and then collecting when we had the car over in Scotland. Hm, wonder if we were supposed to declare them on the ferry? Well, too late now. Anyways, after a couple of applications of teak oil, the cockpit table and the trim look as good as new.
Well, the forecast wind arrived and it's still blowing F6 although it is supposed to ease overnight.
The people here at the marina speak very good English and are incredibly helpful. We like this place and will stay a few more days. Yesterday we did some badly needed maintenance on the teak parts of the boat - we strongly recommend Wessex Chemicals for teak cleaner and restorer. Now the unfortunate thing is that you cannot source them in Northern Ireland, nor can they be shipped other than at great expense because of some of the ingredients, but we got ours by having them sent to Anna and then collecting when we had the car over in Scotland. Hm, wonder if we were supposed to declare them on the ferry? Well, too late now. Anyways, after a couple of applications of teak oil, the cockpit table and the trim look as good as new.
To-day we took the bus to Noia, which is at the head of the Ria and used to be a port, but has silted up. It is delightful with lots of very narrow and very old streets. A charming square in front of the Iglesia San Martin found us having our morning coffee while we watched the gathering of young people for a Confirmation ceremony. The girls, probably 14-15 were dressed up in their finest, including killer heels - you know, "these heels are killing me" - whereas the boys were in any old T-shirt and jeans. Very odd. While waiting for the return bus, we had a beer and small plates (tapas) of chickpeas in a tangy tomato sauce - this was one of the things we came for.
To-night we are having dinner at the Portosin Club Nautico and have adjusted to Spanish time somewhat - we have a table at 2130 and that's a tad on the early side.
To-night we are having dinner at the Portosin Club Nautico and have adjusted to Spanish time somewhat - we have a table at 2130 and that's a tad on the early side.
1100 Wednesday 24th June 2009
Posn 42deg47'.125N 009deg03'.169W
We enjoyed our stay in Portosin very much. Dinner on Saturday evening was in the restaurant in the Club Nautico, where we ate local shellfish (razors) and cod cooked in the Galician style with plenty of garlic and tomato sauce. Great service, friendly staff, and fabulous views looking out to the entrance to the Ria de Muros all contributed to a lovely evening.
On Sunday we took the bus to Noia again, to buy a Spanish SIM card and then chill out in a cafe in the square. The F6 finally died down in the afternoon, and accordingly the yacht traffic started up again, with several new arrivals. While having an early evening drink in the bar in the clubhouse,finishing the day's e-mails, We were treated to a lovely concert, by a local 14 year old girl, who played piano for the young people of the club - very impressive.
Monday morning saw several yachts depart from the marina, particularly those headed north. We decided to stock up with fresh food for a few days, and to head across the Ria to Muros, where the pilot book suggested that anchoring was very pleasant. We were sorry to leave the CNP marina, and cannot recommend this too strongly for its friendly staff and efficient service - Carmen in the office speaks excellent English and is extremely helpful. Reeds describes the CNP as "a real pleasure" and we wholeheartedly agree.
We left on Monday afternoon, and motored across to Muros, anchoring away from the town, in the quieter Ensenade de Bornalle, since the pilot book told us that the anchorage nearer the town quay can be uncomfortable with some swell, while the bottom there may be foul with rubbish. Nevertheless, several yachts are at anchor there, so the latter may or may not be accurate.
We took the dinghy over to Muros on Tuesday morning for a walk round and it's another picturesque Galicain town, with narrow streets, colonnaded pavements, a lively market and friendly folk. We've decided to stay here until Thursday too, and then depending on the forecast, perhaps head round into the Ria de Arousa.
Posn 42deg47'.125N 009deg03'.169W
We enjoyed our stay in Portosin very much. Dinner on Saturday evening was in the restaurant in the Club Nautico, where we ate local shellfish (razors) and cod cooked in the Galician style with plenty of garlic and tomato sauce. Great service, friendly staff, and fabulous views looking out to the entrance to the Ria de Muros all contributed to a lovely evening.
On Sunday we took the bus to Noia again, to buy a Spanish SIM card and then chill out in a cafe in the square. The F6 finally died down in the afternoon, and accordingly the yacht traffic started up again, with several new arrivals. While having an early evening drink in the bar in the clubhouse,finishing the day's e-mails, We were treated to a lovely concert, by a local 14 year old girl, who played piano for the young people of the club - very impressive.
Monday morning saw several yachts depart from the marina, particularly those headed north. We decided to stock up with fresh food for a few days, and to head across the Ria to Muros, where the pilot book suggested that anchoring was very pleasant. We were sorry to leave the CNP marina, and cannot recommend this too strongly for its friendly staff and efficient service - Carmen in the office speaks excellent English and is extremely helpful. Reeds describes the CNP as "a real pleasure" and we wholeheartedly agree.
We left on Monday afternoon, and motored across to Muros, anchoring away from the town, in the quieter Ensenade de Bornalle, since the pilot book told us that the anchorage nearer the town quay can be uncomfortable with some swell, while the bottom there may be foul with rubbish. Nevertheless, several yachts are at anchor there, so the latter may or may not be accurate.
We took the dinghy over to Muros on Tuesday morning for a walk round and it's another picturesque Galicain town, with narrow streets, colonnaded pavements, a lively market and friendly folk. We've decided to stay here until Thursday too, and then depending on the forecast, perhaps head round into the Ria de Arousa.
During the evening on Tuesday we felt as if we were in a war zone. First, there was smoke from lots of bonfires in and around Muros, then there was the sound of explosions, followed by extensive gunfire. Muros looked as if it was under attack. We can only put it down to a confluence of Tuesday evening being 'Burn your garden rubbish' evening, blasting at a quarry above the town, and hunters out shooting fur and feathers. Then we had the experiene of the 'madrugada' - the time between midnight and dawn. Close by on shore there were a couple of groups of young people having bonfires and partying - amazing how voices carry to the forecabin of a boat at 0300. Then we had the consequences of their bonfires to clear up this morning. A light offshore breeze had carried the ash just far enough to cover the deck. Hm ... the quieter bay??
We have a morning of entertainment provided by the local fishermen who anchor their boats near the viveros and then use long pipes to push into the seabed to get up some kind of 'marisco' (shellfish) or 'pescado' (fish) - our mission for to-day is to find out what. Then there is a group of people in wetsuits with masks, snorkels and fins who flap about on the surface and then dive to collect whatever creatures they have terrified - more research needed.
It is very peaceful here - a few yachts come and go, and in fact two French-flagged OVNIs came in - a 455CC and a 365 - the former came over and said hello. The fraternity of boat marques is at work.
We are managing to slow down a bit, but any opportunity for multi-tasking, parallel-tasking, or planning sees us increasing speed. Yesterday afternoon we did do lazing - well, Phil did snoozing and reading while Norma did yoga on the foredeck. It's good.
We are managing to slow down a bit, but any opportunity for multi-tasking, parallel-tasking, or planning sees us increasing speed. Yesterday afternoon we did do lazing - well, Phil did snoozing and reading while Norma did yoga on the foredeck. It's good.
1200 28th June 2009
Posn 42deg33'.68N 08deg59'.21W
Well, what a surprise! Hm ... more of that later.
We are now in Santa Uxia de Riveira otherwise known as Ribeira. It’s the first place on the left as you enter Ria de Arosa. We arrived Friday evening after motoring/bit of motor-sailing – no wind, well 3-5kts - from Muros. We usually put up the mainsail even if there is a very light wind as it steadies the boat and you never know what the pesky engine might do, although it should be all OK after the ministrations over the winter and Spring – but, once bitten ... The Pilot Book recommends a route 5nm offshore – naw, after spending all that time in Strangford Lough we were going for the rock-hopping, inshore route via the Canal del Norte and Paso del Carreiro. Yup, just like Strangford Lough – we even had 0.6kts of tide helping us through the Paso.
Friday night we anchored off the beach just outside the marina – very nice too. Windguru had forecast winds of 12-15kts for yesterday from the south-west, so we decided we would be moving anyway as the anchorage is open to the south-west and would become a bit rolly/bouncy. However, we acquired some information – don’t be impatient, all will be revealed – that the weather system to the west might just clip us with some stronger winds. The upshot was that we took the dinghy into the marina and spoke to the very nice man running the show and he found a berth for us. It is quite a small and full marina – lots of local boats and only one other visitor, some French people. We had hoped to do our weekly wash – that’s clothes, not us – but no washing machines. Guess who is angling for some power-hungry contraption that will assist with washing bedding and towels on the boat, and guess who thinks just throwing them over the boom to air for a few hours will keep ‘em going for months? Guess who has won this particular debate! It will be on order soon.
However, there’s more on Muros – despite extensive research (a half-baked conversation with a guy in the wifi cafe) we did not get confirmation about what the fishermen with the long pipes were doing – one theory is that they are pulling shellfish drags - so if anyone knows, do drop us an e-mail to enlighten us. We really did like Muros and would strongly recommend it – it has a great atmosphere, with street markets and lots of activity, as well as it’s quaint architecture. Notwithstanding this, they do like lots of bangs – fireworks and blasting seem to be very popular.
So, the neighbouring boat – a rather splendid blue-hulled, cutter-rigged, centre-cockpit Moody 49 which is actually 55 feet long – was anchored nearby in Muros and on Thursday as we were preparing to leave the people from the boat came over to say hello and invite us for tea and cake. Well, in view of the facts that it was raining and cake was on offer we decided to stay another night and visit Suzie Too – the lemon cake was delicious http://blog.mailasail.com/suzietoo . Our hosts were extremely charming and welcoming, and there was the usual conversation about where from and where to. Turns out they have the same plan as us, so later in the year we will be seeing a lot of David and Suzanne and we really look forward to that. Well, what a surprise. We had not expected to meet up with similar-oriented folk until much later. So, they too are now in Ria de Arosa and provided the weather forecast update this morning. We will probably meet up again in a few days time. There are lots of places to visit in Ria de Arosa so we could be here for a few weeks.
In the meantime, we have made marina reservations for our visit to Lisbon as it may get busy and crowded.
Last night we had dinner at the Club Nautico de Ribeira - at the marina - after wandering around Riveira in search of a restaurant. There were lots of cafes and bars but only a couple of restaurants which were deserted even at 2200. Anyways, a lesson was learned. We were assisted by a very nice waiter who offered us Pimientos de Padron and Pulpa followed by Sea Bass. We agreed. The food was delicious but there was enough for four people - the we got the bill. Yes, enough for four people!
The wind and rain came in - gusts around 20kts, so it was not as bad as expected. To-day we may take a bus ride and chill out - we need to do lots of chilling out after last night's cuenta.
Posn 42deg33'.68N 08deg59'.21W
Well, what a surprise! Hm ... more of that later.
We are now in Santa Uxia de Riveira otherwise known as Ribeira. It’s the first place on the left as you enter Ria de Arosa. We arrived Friday evening after motoring/bit of motor-sailing – no wind, well 3-5kts - from Muros. We usually put up the mainsail even if there is a very light wind as it steadies the boat and you never know what the pesky engine might do, although it should be all OK after the ministrations over the winter and Spring – but, once bitten ... The Pilot Book recommends a route 5nm offshore – naw, after spending all that time in Strangford Lough we were going for the rock-hopping, inshore route via the Canal del Norte and Paso del Carreiro. Yup, just like Strangford Lough – we even had 0.6kts of tide helping us through the Paso.
Friday night we anchored off the beach just outside the marina – very nice too. Windguru had forecast winds of 12-15kts for yesterday from the south-west, so we decided we would be moving anyway as the anchorage is open to the south-west and would become a bit rolly/bouncy. However, we acquired some information – don’t be impatient, all will be revealed – that the weather system to the west might just clip us with some stronger winds. The upshot was that we took the dinghy into the marina and spoke to the very nice man running the show and he found a berth for us. It is quite a small and full marina – lots of local boats and only one other visitor, some French people. We had hoped to do our weekly wash – that’s clothes, not us – but no washing machines. Guess who is angling for some power-hungry contraption that will assist with washing bedding and towels on the boat, and guess who thinks just throwing them over the boom to air for a few hours will keep ‘em going for months? Guess who has won this particular debate! It will be on order soon.
However, there’s more on Muros – despite extensive research (a half-baked conversation with a guy in the wifi cafe) we did not get confirmation about what the fishermen with the long pipes were doing – one theory is that they are pulling shellfish drags - so if anyone knows, do drop us an e-mail to enlighten us. We really did like Muros and would strongly recommend it – it has a great atmosphere, with street markets and lots of activity, as well as it’s quaint architecture. Notwithstanding this, they do like lots of bangs – fireworks and blasting seem to be very popular.
So, the neighbouring boat – a rather splendid blue-hulled, cutter-rigged, centre-cockpit Moody 49 which is actually 55 feet long – was anchored nearby in Muros and on Thursday as we were preparing to leave the people from the boat came over to say hello and invite us for tea and cake. Well, in view of the facts that it was raining and cake was on offer we decided to stay another night and visit Suzie Too – the lemon cake was delicious http://blog.mailasail.com/suzietoo . Our hosts were extremely charming and welcoming, and there was the usual conversation about where from and where to. Turns out they have the same plan as us, so later in the year we will be seeing a lot of David and Suzanne and we really look forward to that. Well, what a surprise. We had not expected to meet up with similar-oriented folk until much later. So, they too are now in Ria de Arosa and provided the weather forecast update this morning. We will probably meet up again in a few days time. There are lots of places to visit in Ria de Arosa so we could be here for a few weeks.
In the meantime, we have made marina reservations for our visit to Lisbon as it may get busy and crowded.
Last night we had dinner at the Club Nautico de Ribeira - at the marina - after wandering around Riveira in search of a restaurant. There were lots of cafes and bars but only a couple of restaurants which were deserted even at 2200. Anyways, a lesson was learned. We were assisted by a very nice waiter who offered us Pimientos de Padron and Pulpa followed by Sea Bass. We agreed. The food was delicious but there was enough for four people - the we got the bill. Yes, enough for four people!
The wind and rain came in - gusts around 20kts, so it was not as bad as expected. To-day we may take a bus ride and chill out - we need to do lots of chilling out after last night's cuenta.
Monday 29th June
Riveira
So we did take the bus to Corrubedo and it was worth the trip. The clouds cleared as we approached that part of the coast and we had a quick walk out to the lighthouse. The scenery is very reminiscent of Donegal, but then they are both at the north-west corners of landmasses facing the Atlantic Ocean. The bay near the lighthouse is just like Rossbeg. We sat by the small harbour in a cafe where lots of people were having lunch. We are contemplating switching to having lunch or evening tapas out rather than dinner as people here eat very late. Corrubedo had lots of ancient stone granaries, built off the ground to keep out rats and mice. Some are doubly taking no chances and invoke heavenly help by having crosses on the gables.
To-day is cloudy with some drizzle, but we are moving from here. Riveira is fine and the factory on the hill overlooking the marina puts in mind of Larne - well, only momentarily.
Riveira
So we did take the bus to Corrubedo and it was worth the trip. The clouds cleared as we approached that part of the coast and we had a quick walk out to the lighthouse. The scenery is very reminiscent of Donegal, but then they are both at the north-west corners of landmasses facing the Atlantic Ocean. The bay near the lighthouse is just like Rossbeg. We sat by the small harbour in a cafe where lots of people were having lunch. We are contemplating switching to having lunch or evening tapas out rather than dinner as people here eat very late. Corrubedo had lots of ancient stone granaries, built off the ground to keep out rats and mice. Some are doubly taking no chances and invoke heavenly help by having crosses on the gables.
To-day is cloudy with some drizzle, but we are moving from here. Riveira is fine and the factory on the hill overlooking the marina puts in mind of Larne - well, only momentarily.
Thursday 2nd July 2009
Posn 42deg28'.980N 08deg50'.280W
Ah, but we have also been at 42deg36'.003N 08deg46'.094W before we came here. We left Riveira on Monday 29th June and sailed to Vilagarcia which was all of 13nm but we had every point of sail, with Norma helming. It was a bit overcast, but nevertheless we had a good sail in 15-20kts. Vilagarcia marina is very nice, with friendly staff - yes, we know, everyone is friendly, so good on the Spanish - and sound facilities. It is also part of a group of marinas in Galicia that are not run by clubs, so you pay 5 Euros for a boat passport and then get 10% off the bill. So, in fact we got three nights in Vilagarcia for the same price as two in Riveira, and without doubt we much preferred Vilagarcia. Despite both having substantial commercial harbours with Vilagarcia heavily involved in the mussel farming in the Ria and Riveira having a fleet of fishing vessels, some of which are deep-sea, Vilagarcia seems much more sophisticated and cared for. Maybe tourism is a bigger factor, but Vilagarcia has good shops and pleasant squares and pedestrian areas.
The marina at Vilagarcia had quite a few British boats, so it is very sociable and we got to meet Harry and Margot on "No Agenda", a Nauticat 44, and they were very helpful to us re the purchase of a wifi antenna amplifier - we have not had the benefit yet, but it is installed (help from Jim on "Impressionist")and ready to go. We also met up with David and Suzanne again on "Suzie Too". Coming into the marina was a bit hairy as we had to go the full length of a trot of finger pontoons and then go into a space with about 1mm to spare either side - only a very small exaggeration - with the 20kt wind blowing us sideways. However, we squeezed in.
To-day we sailed the 14nm back down the Ria - a beat most of the way with Minnie B doing 6.5kts in just over 10kts wind - and the sun shone. It has been delightful, with some interesting pilotage - once again the Strangford Lough experience paid dividends as we are now tucked up where only shallow draft vessels can go, having negotiated the Ensenada de Cambados and the Ensenada de Umia. We are now at anchor between the Isla Toxa Pequena, Islote Beiro and Isla Toxa Grande - the Pilot Book says that the latter is for the "smart set", so that will be us then ...? We will find out more later, but it looks well-manicured and there are two hotels, holiday villas, a golf course and what looks like a toy train - in fact we are a bit concerned as the train looks like something out of "The Prisoner" (oh, do remember - Patrick McGuigan*, Port Meirion, "I am not a number, I am a free man" etc) - so if there are no more messages from us, send a search party as we are being kept captive on Isla Toxa Grande.
*Webmaster’s Note: Does Phil Mean “Patrick McGoohan”?
Posn 42deg28'.980N 08deg50'.280W
Ah, but we have also been at 42deg36'.003N 08deg46'.094W before we came here. We left Riveira on Monday 29th June and sailed to Vilagarcia which was all of 13nm but we had every point of sail, with Norma helming. It was a bit overcast, but nevertheless we had a good sail in 15-20kts. Vilagarcia marina is very nice, with friendly staff - yes, we know, everyone is friendly, so good on the Spanish - and sound facilities. It is also part of a group of marinas in Galicia that are not run by clubs, so you pay 5 Euros for a boat passport and then get 10% off the bill. So, in fact we got three nights in Vilagarcia for the same price as two in Riveira, and without doubt we much preferred Vilagarcia. Despite both having substantial commercial harbours with Vilagarcia heavily involved in the mussel farming in the Ria and Riveira having a fleet of fishing vessels, some of which are deep-sea, Vilagarcia seems much more sophisticated and cared for. Maybe tourism is a bigger factor, but Vilagarcia has good shops and pleasant squares and pedestrian areas.
The marina at Vilagarcia had quite a few British boats, so it is very sociable and we got to meet Harry and Margot on "No Agenda", a Nauticat 44, and they were very helpful to us re the purchase of a wifi antenna amplifier - we have not had the benefit yet, but it is installed (help from Jim on "Impressionist")and ready to go. We also met up with David and Suzanne again on "Suzie Too". Coming into the marina was a bit hairy as we had to go the full length of a trot of finger pontoons and then go into a space with about 1mm to spare either side - only a very small exaggeration - with the 20kt wind blowing us sideways. However, we squeezed in.
To-day we sailed the 14nm back down the Ria - a beat most of the way with Minnie B doing 6.5kts in just over 10kts wind - and the sun shone. It has been delightful, with some interesting pilotage - once again the Strangford Lough experience paid dividends as we are now tucked up where only shallow draft vessels can go, having negotiated the Ensenada de Cambados and the Ensenada de Umia. We are now at anchor between the Isla Toxa Pequena, Islote Beiro and Isla Toxa Grande - the Pilot Book says that the latter is for the "smart set", so that will be us then ...? We will find out more later, but it looks well-manicured and there are two hotels, holiday villas, a golf course and what looks like a toy train - in fact we are a bit concerned as the train looks like something out of "The Prisoner" (oh, do remember - Patrick McGuigan*, Port Meirion, "I am not a number, I am a free man" etc) - so if there are no more messages from us, send a search party as we are being kept captive on Isla Toxa Grande.
*Webmaster’s Note: Does Phil Mean “Patrick McGoohan”?
Friday 3rd July 2009
Posn 42deg28'.980N 08deg50'.280W
We woke up with enthusiasm for taking the dinghy ashore and walking around Isla Toxa Grande which is only 1 mile long, or thereabouts. However, the glorious sunshine of yesterday had been replaced by a grey sky of stratus cloud and drizzle. So, with no urgency we lay in bed until after 1000 reading - now this is most unusual but we did not feel the guilt normally associated with not conforming to the Protestant work ethic and which has dominated most of our lives. Then we understood why. Spain is a Catholic country so the norms and mores have obviously been acquired by some process of osmosis. Oh dear, hope this is not offending anyone. The weather brightened for a while and we got as far as lowering the dinghy into the water. Hm, still drizzle so put the coffee on. Read. Talk about all the chandlery we don't have and how we are going to get it. Read. Check weather - drizzle. Have lunch and hope it clears in the afternoon. Read. Watch a couple of yachts come and look at the anchorage at high water and turn tail. Do they know something we don't? Thank goodness for the lifting keel. Read. Make a cup of the most splendid tea - purchased in Darjeeling on our trip to India in February (did we say we were in India for February - advice to all our readers: sell everything and go on an extended trip to India as the places and people are sensorily exciting - did we say this before?). Read. Check weather - no change although the wind was up to 16kts in the afternoon. Watch the "glass bottomed" tourist boat circle the Ensenada for the third time to-day. Read and finish book. Glass of wine. Have dinner - it's Chinese to-night ... thought you'd be interested. We are bearing up under the stress and strain of it all.
We are determined to go ashore tomorrow as Isla Toxa Grande has an interesting church covered in scallop shells - must be St James'. Bear in mind it still looks like the island of "The Prisoner", so we will be on our guard.
Posn 42deg28'.980N 08deg50'.280W
We woke up with enthusiasm for taking the dinghy ashore and walking around Isla Toxa Grande which is only 1 mile long, or thereabouts. However, the glorious sunshine of yesterday had been replaced by a grey sky of stratus cloud and drizzle. So, with no urgency we lay in bed until after 1000 reading - now this is most unusual but we did not feel the guilt normally associated with not conforming to the Protestant work ethic and which has dominated most of our lives. Then we understood why. Spain is a Catholic country so the norms and mores have obviously been acquired by some process of osmosis. Oh dear, hope this is not offending anyone. The weather brightened for a while and we got as far as lowering the dinghy into the water. Hm, still drizzle so put the coffee on. Read. Talk about all the chandlery we don't have and how we are going to get it. Read. Check weather - drizzle. Have lunch and hope it clears in the afternoon. Read. Watch a couple of yachts come and look at the anchorage at high water and turn tail. Do they know something we don't? Thank goodness for the lifting keel. Read. Make a cup of the most splendid tea - purchased in Darjeeling on our trip to India in February (did we say we were in India for February - advice to all our readers: sell everything and go on an extended trip to India as the places and people are sensorily exciting - did we say this before?). Read. Check weather - no change although the wind was up to 16kts in the afternoon. Watch the "glass bottomed" tourist boat circle the Ensenada for the third time to-day. Read and finish book. Glass of wine. Have dinner - it's Chinese to-night ... thought you'd be interested. We are bearing up under the stress and strain of it all.
We are determined to go ashore tomorrow as Isla Toxa Grande has an interesting church covered in scallop shells - must be St James'. Bear in mind it still looks like the island of "The Prisoner", so we will be on our guard.
Sunday 5th July
Posn 42deg30'.782N 08deg49'.582W
So there we were,yesterday, rowing back from Isla Toxa Grande when this white ball about 3 metres in diameter with the consistency of a balloon suddenly appeared on the surface of the water, behind us and started heading our way ... Well, of course it didn't. We did, though, decide to row ashore for the exercise. Now, we have always found judging distance at sea level a bit tricky - this occasion was no different. You remember either your own or your offspring's childhood and the cries of "Are we nearly there yet?"? Well that was us. Eventually we made shore and sure enough, the island is smart so we felt quite at home. We headed for the island's most famous monument, the church covered in scallop shells - and it is very striking. The interior was a bit of a revelation too, as it was bright and quite simple. The scallop shell behind the Virgin and altar completes the theme. The island comprises two hotels, lots of holiday apartments and houses (some are very smart indeed), a golf course, market for shells and crafts, and a collection of tourist shops (clothes, knick-knacks, jewellery, wine, etc.) cafes and restaurants. It is connected to the peninsula O Grove by a bridge so we had a walk over there, buying a few provisions. The island and peninsula are as sophisticated and holiday service dominant as any places we have visited to-date in Spain. They confirm that this would be a fine place to visit whether by boat or car. Incidentally, the sun shone.
Posn 42deg30'.782N 08deg49'.582W
So there we were,yesterday, rowing back from Isla Toxa Grande when this white ball about 3 metres in diameter with the consistency of a balloon suddenly appeared on the surface of the water, behind us and started heading our way ... Well, of course it didn't. We did, though, decide to row ashore for the exercise. Now, we have always found judging distance at sea level a bit tricky - this occasion was no different. You remember either your own or your offspring's childhood and the cries of "Are we nearly there yet?"? Well that was us. Eventually we made shore and sure enough, the island is smart so we felt quite at home. We headed for the island's most famous monument, the church covered in scallop shells - and it is very striking. The interior was a bit of a revelation too, as it was bright and quite simple. The scallop shell behind the Virgin and altar completes the theme. The island comprises two hotels, lots of holiday apartments and houses (some are very smart indeed), a golf course, market for shells and crafts, and a collection of tourist shops (clothes, knick-knacks, jewellery, wine, etc.) cafes and restaurants. It is connected to the peninsula O Grove by a bridge so we had a walk over there, buying a few provisions. The island and peninsula are as sophisticated and holiday service dominant as any places we have visited to-date in Spain. They confirm that this would be a fine place to visit whether by boat or car. Incidentally, the sun shone.
We decided to move round to Cambados on the rising tide, so left around 1400 and made our way the 1.8nm to anchor off Cambados - we calculated we would have 1.7m under us at low water (with the centreboard up we draw 0.58m) and that's what we had, so loads of water. Even so we are still a third of a mile from the harbour. We had a trip ashore last night to catch up on the e-mails and check the weather forecast - the wifi booster seems to operate but even so we have not had a strong enough signal to access the internet from Minnie B. The forecast from the GRIB files (downloaded via the SSB) showed that through to Monday we would have SW veering W 5-10kts with the wind going into the North on Monday and maybe F4. Windguru last night on the WRF forecast (most accurate) showed the same except that Monday would be F5 with gusts of F6. You guessed, didn't you - we have had the F5 with F6 gusts to-day, but the direction remains West. We have also had rain just this morning. So we are not sure what tomorrow will bring - La Corunna radio said NW F3-4 at 1400 to-day.
Our short walk round Cambados left us with a sufficient taste to want to explore it some more. Last night Norma made a superb pizza with mussels, anchovies and tuna - just so you know. We have spent the day revising some of our equipment operating knowledge (SSB) and relaxing with our books.
The sun is shining ... intermittently. We seem to be getting weather similar to the West of Scotland (or as we know it, the Wets of Scotland) but it is warmer here. It certainly has not been wall-to-wall sunshine, but then we don't mind since it's a very nice place. The Rias (so far) have not been as majestic and grand as the sea lochs of Scotland, but the orange/red terracotta roofs do make it look sunnier, and the landscape is more mixed in terms of trees and cultivation. The wind turbines are fewer in Ria de Arosa and don't have the menace of those further north which were lined up like the Zulu Impi ready to descend on Rorke's Drift, or when they are in full flow, like the Mahdi's Dervishes at the walls of Khartoum. Nevertheless, the visual impact of the wind turbines should be worth the benefit in environmentally sound electricity generation.
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