To Phuilladobhrain Sunday 13th July
We left Salen Bay at 0940, with the wind W F1. So we motored on through Loch Sunart to the Sound of Mull. The test match commentary was played in the cockpit – South Africa were 328 behind England and batting, but the English bowlers were not making much of an impression. No change there then.
The wind remained light and fickle as we made our way south down the Sound of Mull. As a large number of yachts made their way north towards us we discovered the reason for Oban/Kerrera being full – it was the Classic Malts Cruise gathering for the start of their event. We saw an OVNI and made our way towards her thinking it may have been Colin and Lou, but it was an intrepid French family who had brought their boat from the South coast of France. Waves and smile were exchanged in acknowledgment of sound boat selection.
We managed to sail once clear of the Sound of Mull and reached Phuilladobhrain by 1510.
This is a truly delightful anchorage protected from all directions except north. We had arrived early enough to find a good spot and the anchorage quickly filled up.
Phuilladobhrain is pronounced Pol dor an, and means “pool of the otter”. It is on the Isle of Seil, 12 miles south of Oban tourism and is connected to the mainland of Argyll by the lovely old humpbacked Clachan Bridge
(popularly called 'The Bridge over the Atlantic Ocean' or 'Atlantic Bridge')
(popularly called 'The Bridge over the Atlantic Ocean' or 'Atlantic Bridge')
We rowed the dinghy ashore and hauled her up the beach. The footpath was easy to identify and we made our way to the Clachan Bridge. It was built in 1792. Nearby is another attraction: Tigh na Truish Inn or The House of Trousers, so-called because after the Jacobite Risings when kilts were banned, the islanders were reputed to change out of their kilts and into trews here, when going the mainland.
We sat outside and had a couple of drinks, enjoyed the views from the top of the bridge and made our way slowly back to Minnie B for dinner and an early night.
To Craobh Haven Monday 14th July
The forecast was poor – rain, fog and not much wind, so we were minded just to put in some miles and have a treat at the end. So, to Craobh Haven.
We raised the anchor at 1230 and had one of those “what if” moments. When the anchor came up it was covered in gooey mud so Phil got the boathook to scrape it off. He dropped the boat hook which floated. Now, before we set off on this trip Phil had thought it would be a good idea to have two boat hooks in case we dropped one. So that was prescient … or was it? Would he have dropped the boat hook if he had in mind that it was the only one? Was the thought parent to the act? Well, we’ll never know – best to have two.
As we pulled out of Phuilladobhrain, the fog came in and at times visibility was down to 100 metres. The Sea-me radar target enhancer was on, along with the radar, and the navigation and steaming lights. We hoisted the mainsail and the motor-sailing cone. Every five minutes we gave one long blast on the fog horn. We were doing all the right things and everything was alright – we picked up other boats on the radar, altered course when we needed to and made our way through the Sound of Luing safely. The fog cleared as we neared Craobh Haven and we managed to sail the last five miles, arriving at 1545.
We were allocated our berth and this time we were ready – fenders on both sides – but what a tight squeeze. We only just got in and our beam is not quite 4m.
Our treat? Back to LOTI for dinner – impeccable once again - and another episode of “Brideshead Revisited”.
To Craighouse, Jura Wednesday 16th July
The previous evening’s weather forecast was for W F5-7. We needed to get south so decided to head for Craighouse as our trip would be in the lee of Jura for much of the way.
We left Craobh Haven at 1055 and we were quickly under sail. Off Corryvreckan the wind increased to F6 and we were storming along. By 1520 we were at Craighouse and the wind was gusting F7. We decided on a visitor’s buoy as the bottom is not good. Someone had kindly attached pick up buoys to the big blue visitors’ buoys and Norma hooked one of these, but when we got it on board it was useless as we still could not reach the ring on the top of the main buoy to attach a mooring rope. We quickly deployed the lasso and were safely secured to the buoy, then it was launch the dinghy so that mooring lines could be made fast.
It rained.
We had a visit from two guys on an “Islay Seatours” boat asking for £10 for the use of the mooring – were they bona fide or was it a scam? We handed over the money but somehow they didn’t have their receipt book with them. Well, who knows?
It rained.
This was our second visit to Craighouse in two years and based on this experience we can confidently state two things: first, that it rains whenever a boat arrives there; and second, that it rains most of the time. We did not go ashore … for the second time.
It rained.
We watched two episodes of “Brideshead Revisited” and had the Eberspacher heating the boat nicely.
Sound of Mull
Phuilladobhrain
Craobh Haven Tuesday 15th July
We decided to stay put and after a lazy morning with showers and rain, Norma baked bread for lunch – a successful experiment which augured well for the future.
The rain cleared and we decided on a walk to the Loch Melfort Hotel – six miles round trip. It was pleasant enough, but it was cold – only 14ºC – and there was a wind blowing in from the south-west. We dodged the traffic but enjoyed the great views over Asknish Bay towards Jura, Shuna and Scarba. The comfortable lounge beckoned along with a refreshing drink.
By the time we had walked back to Craobh Haven the rain was on. Yuk. The cold weather also meant we had the heater on full blast in the saloon to keep warm. We had an early evening visit to LOTI and dinner on board.
To Gigha Thursday 17th July
It rained.
With the wind W F2 we decided to sail off the mooring – quite satisfying. We sailed most of the way, arriving at Ardminish Bay, Gigha at 1405.
We had picked up a mooring and were tidying up when Phil’s mobile phone rang. A Scottish voice began: “Hellooo, this is the Gigha Harbourmaster and I see you have an OVNI, now I take a particular interest in these boats and wonder if I could come over and drink some of your whisky?” Phil’s response: “Well hello Gordon, since when were you promoted to the lofty heights of Harbourmaster?” It was a friend that we had met through Stephen and Francine – Gordon helped them at the boat shows and they had sailed with him in Scotland. He was helping a friend Tom, get used to his new Oyster 46. So, Gordon and Tom would call by later for a drink as they were eating ashore.
The weather had picked up – the rain had been turned off and there was some sun breaking through. We decided to go ashore and visit Achamore Gardens.
According to the Isle of Gigha website: The Clan McNeill became the undisputed Lairds in 1590 after a fierce power struggle between the MacDonalds and the McNeills. At the end of the 19th century Captain William Scarlett, the 3rd Lord Abinger purchased the estate and built the listed B Achamore House in 1884 to the design of John Honeyman. The main areas of woodland to the north and south of the house were planted by William Scarlett to provide shelter from the strong winds and salt spray and game cover. When Sir James Horlick acquired the estate in 1944 he wished to establish a garden to grow his more tender Rhododendrons. He managed this by cutting small clearings in the Ponticum and trees and by 1970 the garden was full and looked magnificent. On his death he left some of his collection to the National Trust for Scotland so that rare species could be propagated and shared with other great gardens.
On the 15th March 2002 the Island was purchased in a Historic buy-out by the inhabitants of Gigha. It is now owned and managed by the Isle of Gigha Heritage Trust.
The gardens are very pleasant and we enjoyed the azaleas and late-flowering rhododendrons.
We called at the Gigha Hotel for a drink. We were able to sit outside and enjoy the view across the bay to the Kintyre peninsula. It was nice … until a group of obnoxious, foul-mouthed, rude guys from North Antrim wandered into the pub garden with their drinks. They had come over on a day trip from Ballycastle in a chartered RIB. The barmaid was seriously fed up with their rudeness and swearing, and now we were subjected to a barrage of questions as they looked across to the Kintyre peninsula that included “is tha’ Scotland then?” “is tha’ th’ ‘ighlands then?” “is tha’ wos owned ba tha’ Beatle, Paul McCartney then?” Eventually they returned to the bar to harass the barmaid some more but not before one of their company had turned on the garden hose and was spraying cars and tractors as they passed the hotel. What an example of Northern Ireland’s finest.
We wandered round the few arty shops and got talking with Bryan and Dorothy who were sailing ‘Caitlin of Argyll’ – a red steel boat, and very fine-looking indeed. They were very interested in Minnie B and thoroughly nice people.
We returned to Minnie B and our day brightened further when Gordon and Tom arrived. Our ‘Bushmills’ was rejected in favour of our ‘Famous Grouse’. So, they were happy. The craic was good and whilst we stayed onboard for our dinner they went ashore for theirs, promising to pick us up on their return so that we could see the Oyster.
So we drank a whole bottle of Tom’s malt. Norma had been sensible though and eased up. Inevitably, the two Scots got to talking about their favourite Scot – Gordon Brown. Normally we would be polite and just “um and ah” at anti-Labour ravings but we sort of intuitively decided that this was not the occasion for withholding our views. The conversation became “lively” and Tom became quite distraught exclaiming over and over “I don’t believe we could have a couple of socialists on an Oyster” – never mind, nothing’s too good for the working class.
On returning to Minnie B, Phil decided it would be a good idea to remove the outboard and hoist the dinghy so that it was less work in the morning. A bit of a challenge, but it was completed satisfactorily. The only mishap was Phil’s shoe falling in the water – fortunately it was recovered but he ended up with a very cold foot.
We wandered round the few arty shops and got talking with Bryan and Dorothy who were sailing ‘Caitlin of Argyll’ – a red steel boat, and very fine-looking indeed. They were very interested in Minnie B and thoroughly nice people.
We returned to Minnie B and our day brightened further when Gordon and Tom arrived. Our ‘Bushmills’ was rejected in favour of our ‘Famous Grouse’. So, they were happy. The craic was good and whilst we stayed onboard for our dinner they went ashore for theirs, promising to pick us up on their return so that we could see the Oyster.
So we drank a whole bottle of Tom’s malt. Norma had been sensible though and eased up. Inevitably, the two Scots got to talking about their favourite Scot – Gordon Brown. Normally we would be polite and just “um and ah” at anti-Labour ravings but we sort of intuitively decided that this was not the occasion for withholding our views. The conversation became “lively” and Tom became quite distraught exclaiming over and over “I don’t believe we could have a couple of socialists on an Oyster” – never mind, nothing’s too good for the working class.
On returning to Minnie B, Phil decided it would be a good idea to remove the outboard and hoist the dinghy so that it was less work in the morning. A bit of a challenge, but it was completed satisfactorily. The only mishap was Phil’s shoe falling in the water – fortunately it was recovered but he ended up with a very cold foot.
Tigh na Truish Inn
Phuilladobhrain
The Atlantic Bridge
Looking South from the Atlantic Bridge
Achamore House gardens
Ardminish Bay, Gigha
Ardminish Bay, Gigha
To Bangor Friday 18th July
It was Julia’s birthday, so text messages were sent.
We departed at 0800 in a SE F2 – there was no sign of Tom and Gordon on the Oyster. They must have hurried away from the socialist threat.
We motored on and caught sight of ‘Caitlin of Argyll’ that was returning to the Clyde.
By 1000 the visibility was very poor and we turned on the radar etc. By 1100 we had a steady drizzle but this cleared by mid afternoon and the visibility picked up.
As we arrived off Black Head the wind picked up and we were sailing. This was good as we thought the engine note had cut a bit, but we put it down to Phil knocking the throttle. It had happened again and we reduced the revs that time. Then, about 1 nm off Bangor we were hit by a squall and 30kts of wind. Brilliant - loads of wind for entering the marina and tying up. However, once inside the marina breakwater the wind died to 7kts with some gusts and we were quickly berthed and tidied up by 1800.
We decided to head home for the evening and then take Minnie B back to Ringhaddy on Sunday 20th.
To Ringhaddy Sunday 20th July … or not
On Saturday, Phil had checked the fuel pre-filter, opening the drain tap and having a good look. There appeared to be some bits of dirt. The diesel tank was topped up with 44 litres and the water tank filled. Hm … Did he think to run the engine and make sure it was OK? Course not. “Twit-of-the-day” award number 2.
On Sunday morning all was prepared. Engine on and line let go. Motor off the berth and turn to leave. Engine splutters and stops. Re-start. OK. Splutter and stop. By this time we had turned the pontoon corner and had the sterns of a number of motorboats on our starboard side. There was a light westerly wind blowing us onto these sterns. We had fenders were on the starboard side, but luck was with us and we gently nudged against a rubber dinghy hanging off the back of one of these. Our luck was even greater as our bow blew round and turned us along its port side into an empty berth. We quickly attached a spring and Norma hopped ashore with lines so that we could winch Minnie B across to the berth.
Oh hum. That was a close shave.
It turned out we needed to change the pre-fuel filter and then bleed the system. When opening the pre-fuel filter drain we had not been required to do this previously, but with it being clogged, it was not drawing enough diesel. The fuel at the engine was checked and it was clean, so the pre-fuel filter was changed and the engine ran OK, but there was a problem to be solved.
Minnie B returned to her mooring on Saturday 26th July – no wind, so motored all the way, leaving Bangor at 1010 and arriving at Ringhaddy at 1515.
Pottering for the rest of the season
The rest of the summer was gentle sailing on Strangford Lough with some overnights at anchor in quiet nooks and crannies. Greg and Carol joined us for a weekend on 30th and 31st August and we had a lovely time.
On the weekend of 11th/12th October Sally and Gilli joined us for the weekend and we decided on a trip to Ardglass. The sun shone and we left the mooring at 1150, then sailed all the way to Phennick Cove marina in SW 3-4. The Commercial Arms was getting to know us well. We couldn’t understand though why the all male clientele were not interested in watching “Strictly Come Dancing” and preferring a sports channel on the television – one was actually quite rude and suggested we go to the lounge.
Anyways, back to Minnie B for dinner and craic.
On Sunday we motored back to Strangford Lough and Sally helped set up the spinnaker pole for poling out the genoa and deciding on what we needed to make this work well. We also identified a list of other additions to ready the boat for our future adventures. We had a magical weekend together that we intended to repeat for longer in 2009 and in warmer climes.
We had intended to have an end of season Gentlemen’s cruise as Norma was away (AGAIN) to Paris with her girl friends on 24th- 27th October, but the weather was against us and we had to cancel. Shame. Norma had a good time in Paris though, so all was OK.
On Sunday 16th November, we took Minnie B to Carrickfergus to be lifted out for winter work. It was pleasant day and we managed to sail for most of the way.
We had intended to have an end of season Gentlemen’s cruise as Norma was away (AGAIN) to Paris with her girl friends on 24th- 27th October, but the weather was against us and we had to cancel. Shame. Norma had a good time in Paris though, so all was OK.
On Sunday 16th November, we took Minnie B to Carrickfergus to be lifted out for winter work. It was pleasant day and we managed to sail for most of the way.
